Lençóis Maranhenses National Park in Maranhão, Brazil, is a landscape of pure paradox. Covering over 1,500 km², it looks like a desert of rolling white dunes, yet for half the year, it bursts into life with turquoise and emerald lagoons. Heavy tropical rains, carried by the Intertropical Convergence Zone, transform valleys between dunes into thousands of freshwater pools. From the air, the dunes resemble giant white bedsheets spread across the land—hence the name Lençóis, Portuguese for “sheets.” Locals say it is the only desert in the world where the sand swims.
What makes these lagoons possible is not just rain, but geology. Beneath the quartz dunes lies a hidden impermeable clay layer, a relic of an ancient floodplain. This barrier traps rainwater, creating perched aquifers that hold lagoons for months at a time. Some lagoons are shallow, clear, and sandy-bottomed; others are deep and algae-rich, glowing in shades of blue and green. Each season, winds reshape the dunes, burying some lagoons and revealing new ones, so no two years are ever alike. Scientists call the dunes “restless giants,” as they can move more than 15 meters a year under the push of coastal winds.
Life thrives in this temporary world. The wolf fish, Hoplias malabaricus, can survive dry seasons by burrowing into mud and reawakening with the rains, astonishing first-time visitors who wonder how fish appear in brand-new lakes. Birds such as herons, plovers, and migratory sandpipers cross continents and depend on the lagoons as feeding stations. Along the dune edges, hardy plants called restinga cling to life, while scarlet ibises and mangroves flourish along the coastal margins. To locals, these cycles are not just science but spirit—many believe the wolf fish embodies the soul of the dunes, vanishing with the dry season and returning with the waters.
Communities such as Queimada dos Britos live in harmony with this rhythm, navigating the shifting sands by memory, fishing in the lagoons, and guiding visitors through the park. Tours by 4×4 and boat take travelers from Barreirinhas into this shimmering wilderness, where swimming, photography, and stargazing are unforgettable experiences. Villagers tell stories of lagoons that once took the shape of Brazil, or dunes that glow under a full moon like a living lighthouse. Their lives are interwoven with a landscape that is never stable, never fixed—yet always generous.
Best Time to Visit
Understanding the seasonal rhythm of the park is key to planning your trip:
- Rainy Season (January–June):
Lagoons fill with rainwater, reaching their peak vibrancy in May and June.
Heavy rains may make roads challenging, but the payoff is stunning, swimable lagoons amid rolling dunes.
- Dry Season (July–December):
Lagoons shrink or disappear, leaving vast, uninterrupted sandscapes.
Ideal for photography, long dune treks, and stargazing, when the nights are clear.
Optimal Months: May–June for the full lagoon experience; July–September for peaceful desert-like conditions.
Getting There
Air Travel
São Luís (SLZ): Main international gateway; about 250 km from Barreirinhas.
Frequent flights from Rio de Janeiro, Brasília, and Salvador.
São Luís itself is worth a day or two—colonial architecture, vibrant markets, and cultural festivals.
Overland Travel
Barreirinhas: Main access point to the dunes; about 4–5 hours by road from São Luís.
Options include:
Bus: Economical, daily departures.
Private transfers/tour operators: Faster, convenient, often including guided tours of the park.
Local Travel
4×4 vehicles are essential for dune exploration.
Some lagoons and remote areas are only accessible with licensed local guides, who also ensure safety and provide historical and ecological context.
Where to Stay
Barreirinhas:
Largest town and tourist hub. Accommodations range from budget-friendly pousadas to eco-lodges with lagoon views. Restaurants, tour operators, and ATMs are concentrated here.
Atins:
Smaller, more tranquil village; a hub for kitesurfing, windsurfing, and off-the-beaten-path experiences.
Offers eco-lodges and small inns with stunning dune views.
Caburé:
Located on a narrow peninsula between the Preguiças River and the Atlantic Ocean.
Perfect for river-lagoon-beach combination trips and quiet escapes.
Top Things to Do
Dune Trekking & Lagoon Hopping
Lagoa Bonita and Lagoa Azul are among the most famous lagoons.
Guided treks allow visitors to safely navigate soft sands and reach remote viewpoints.
Trekkers are rewarded with panoramic vistas of rolling dunes punctuated by vibrant lagoons.
Boat Tour Along Preguiças River
Scenic tours along mangroves and small villages.
Stops often include:
Vassouras: Known for palm forests and local crafts.
Mandacaru Lighthouse: Climb for panoramic views of the dunes meeting the Atlantic.
Birdwatching opportunities abound, with species like herons, egrets, and kingfishers.
Kitesurfing & Windsurfing
Atins is a global hotspot for wind sports from July–December.
Local schools offer lessons for beginners; experienced surfers can enjoy world-class winds and waves.
Sunrise & Sunset Photography
Early morning or late afternoon offers dramatic light and soft shadows.
Lagoons mirror the sky’s colors, creating surreal reflections that photographers dream of capturing.
Cultural Immersion
Visit fishing villages to observe traditional techniques and local life.
Sample regional dishes:
Peixe frito (freshly fried fish),
Tapioca pancakes,
Fresh coconut water straight from the shell.
Engage with local artisans producing handmade baskets, mats, and souvenirs.
Sample 3–Day Itinerary
Day 1:
Arrive in Barreirinhas
Afternoon 4×4 tour to Lagoa Bonita
Sunset over the dunes
Day 2:
Boat tour on Preguiças River
Visit Mandacaru Lighthouse and Vassouras village
Relax at Atins village, try local seafood
Day 3:
Early morning trek to Lagoa Azul
Swim in turquoise waters
Explore small dunes and nearby artisan markets
Return to Barreirinhas for departure
7-Day Lençóis Maranhenses Adventure Itinerary for budget, mid-range, and luxury travelers
This itinerary blends adventure, relaxation, and cultural discovery, allowing you to experience the park fully while catering to different travel styles.
Day 1: Arrival in São Luís & Transfer to Barreirinhas
Morning/Afternoon:
Arrive at São Luís Airport (SLZ).
Pick up your rental car, take a private transfer, or join a shuttle to Barreirinhas (~4–5 hours).
Along the way, marvel at Maranhão’s mangroves, palm forests, and rural villages.
Evening:
Check into your accommodation:
Budget: Simple pousadas in Barreirinhas with shared facilities.
Mid-range: Boutique lodges offering river or dune views.
Luxury: Eco-lodges with private terraces, pool, and guided tours.
Dinner in Barreirinhas: Try peixe frito (fried fish) with rice and local herbs.
Tip: Rest well; the adventure begins early tomorrow.
Day 2: Lagoa Bonita & Sunset Dune Trek
Morning:
Depart with a 4×4 guide for Lagoa Bonita, one of the most scenic lagoons.
Trek the dunes, stopping for panoramic photos and short swims.
Afternoon:
Picnic lunch amid dunes or visit a small local village nearby.
Discover hidden lagoons often missed by large tours—locals know secret swimming spots.
Evening:
Climb the highest dune for sunset.
Return to Barreirinhas or opt for an overnight dune camp for stargazing.
Insider Tip: Bring a drone or wide-angle camera to capture the surreal patterns of sand and water.
Day 3: Lagoa Azul & Lagoon Hopping
Morning:
Depart early for Lagoa Azul, another iconic lagoon.
Spend time swimming and relaxing; the lagoon often reflects the sky perfectly.
Afternoon:
Explore smaller, less-visited lagoons along the dunes, ideal for private moments and photography.
Optional: Short trek to Lagoinha do Peixe, a remote lagoon known for crystal-clear water and peaceful surroundings.
Evening:
Return to Barreirinhas or stay in a nearby eco-lodge.
Dinner with fresh seafood or local specialties.
Day 4: Preguiças River & Village Hopping
Morning:
Take a boat tour along the Preguiças River.
Explore Vassouras and Caburé, small villages famous for artisan crafts and traditional lifestyles.
Afternoon:
Visit Mandacaru Lighthouse: climb for 360° views where dunes meet the ocean.
Birdwatching along mangrove channels; look for herons, egrets, and migratory species.
Evening:
Stay overnight in Caburé to enjoy the peaceful riverside setting.
Dinner at a riverside lodge; fresh river fish and tropical fruits.
Luxury Option: Private boat with onboard chef for sunset cocktails.
Day 5: Atins – Kitesurfing & Tranquility
Morning:
Transfer to Atins, the windsurfing and kitesurfing hotspot.
Beginners can take lessons, while experienced surfers enjoy world-class wind and waves.
Afternoon:
Explore secret lagoons near Atins, often reachable only by 4×4 or guided trek.
Relax on the quiet beaches and dunes—perfect for meditation or photography.
Evening:
Dinner at a local restaurant: try tapioca pancakes or fresh lobster.
Optional: Overnight in a boutique eco-lodge with dune or lagoon views.
Day 6: Hidden Dunes & Sunset Reflection
Morning:
Explore off-the-beaten-path dunes, guided by locals.
Discover lagoons tucked between dunes, often missed by typical tours.
Swim in lagoons with almost no other tourists, enjoying serenity and solitude.
Afternoon:
Trek to dunes with changing patterns of sand; the park’s shapes shift daily with the wind.
Optional photography workshop to capture reflections, textures, and landscapes.
Evening:
Sunset atop a high dune; watch the sky turn fiery red, orange, and purple over the lagoons.
Farewell dinner in Atins or Barreirinhas.
Day 7: Return to São Luís & Departure
Morning:
Optional early morning trek for a final sunrise over the dunes.
Depart for São Luís via private transfer or bus.
Afternoon:
Stop en route for snacks and photos.
Arrive at São Luís; explore the colonial city if time allows:
Historic streets of the Pelourinho district, colorful colonial buildings, local markets.
Additional Tips & Insider Secrets
Hidden Lagoons: Ask guides for smaller lagoons like Lagoa do Cardoso or Lagoa do Peixe, less crowded and pristine.
Photography: Early mornings offer soft light; afternoons show vibrant contrasts. Avoid midday sun.
Wildlife: Bring binoculars for birdwatching along lagoons and rivers.
Local Experiences: Try coconut water straight from the shell, participate in local fishing, or attend small village festivals if timing aligns.
Sustainability: Avoid leaving trash in dunes or lagoons; these ecosystems are fragile.
