Gjirokastër, often called the “Stone City” of Albania, is one of the country’s most atmospheric UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Nestled in the Drino Valley and surrounded by mountains, it’s known for its unique Ottoman-era architecture, cobbled streets, and historic fortress. Here are the must-see highlights:
Gjirokastër Castle – The Crown of the Stone City
The first stop for most visitors is the imposing fortress that sits high above the old town. Built in stages from the 12th century onward, it was expanded by both the Ottomans and King Zog. Inside, you can explore long stone corridors, cannons from different eras, and the remains of a U.S. Air Force plane shot down during the Cold War — a reminder of Albania’s turbulent past. The views from the castle walls are spectacular, stretching across the Drino Valley and onto the snow-capped mountains in winter.
👉 Tip: Visit in the late afternoon for softer light and fewer crowds. The castle also hosts Albania’s National Folklore Festival every five years — a magical event if your trip coincides.
Traditional Ottoman Houses – Living Museums
Gjirokastër’s UNESCO status comes largely from its towering Ottoman-era homes, built between the 17th and 19th centuries. Unlike simple townhouses, these are fortress-like mansions with multiple floors, defensive windows, and stone roofs.
Zekate House is the grandest, with painted ceilings and balconies overlooking the valley.
Skenduli House reveals the ingenuity of old Albanian design, with separate quarters for guests, family, and women, plus secret escape passages.
Smaller houses scattered throughout the town are often open to visitors and show off decorated interiors.
👉 Tip: If you only have time for one, Zekate House offers the best introduction. But if you want to experience the atmosphere without rushing, choose two and take your time — the guides are usually descendants of the families who once lived there.
The Bazaar & Old Town – A Living Marketplace
At the heart of the city lies the Ottoman bazaar, rebuilt in the 17th century after a fire. Its cobbled lanes slope downhill, lined with artisan shops, old stone archways, and cafés serving strong Albanian coffee. Here you’ll find woven rugs, embroidery, silver jewelry, and carved wooden items — all made by local craftspeople.
👉 Tip: Don’t bargain too aggressively; Albanians appreciate politeness more than haggling. Try some local sweets like “gliko” (fruit preserves) sold in jars in small family shops.
Ismail Kadare House & Enver Hoxha House – A Tale of Two Figures
Gjirokastër produced two of Albania’s most influential figures:
Ismail Kadare, the novelist and poet nominated for the Nobel Prize, whose works reflect Albanian history, folklore, and communist-era life. His restored childhood home is both a literary pilgrimage and a showcase of traditional architecture.
Enver Hoxha, the former communist dictator, also born here. His house has been preserved as a cultural site, though less celebrated than Kadare’s.
👉 Tip: Even if you are not deeply into literature, Kadare’s house is worth it for the atmosphere and historic furniture.
Mosques & Churches – Spiritual Echoes
Religious heritage survived Gjirokastër despite communist suppression.
The Bazaar Mosque (1757) stands right in the heart of the bazaar, with a slender minaret and a peaceful prayer hall.
The Saint Sotir Orthodox Church showcases local stonework and Byzantine tradition.
👉 Tip: Always ask before taking photos inside religious buildings, and dress respectfully when entering.
Beyond the City – Nature & Ancient Ruins
If you have more than a day, the surroundings are equally rewarding.
Antigonea Archaeological Park (14 km) was founded by King Pyrrhus of Epirus in the 3rd century BC. Its ruins rest on a hilltop with commanding valley views.
Blue Eye Spring (Syri i Kaltër) is a magical natural wonder where clear turquoise water bubbles from deep underground. It’s perfect for a half-day trip.
Labovë e Kryqit Church is one of Albania’s oldest Byzantine churches, dating back to the 6th century, hidden in the mountain villages.
👉 Tip: Hire a local driver or taxi for these excursions, as public transport is limited and not always convenient.
Gjirokastër is small enough to explore in a couple of days, but it’s also layered with history, hidden corners, and nearby excursions that reward slow travel. Below you’ll find more things to see in and around the city, followed by a detailed 2-day itinerary with suggested pacing.
More Things to See in Gjirokastër
Ethnographic Museum
Built on the site of Enver Hoxha’s former home, this museum captures everyday life in Ottoman-era Gjirokastër. Exhibits include traditional clothing, tools, and furniture. It gives a fuller picture of the city’s cultural fabric.
Cold War Tunnel (Bunk’Art Gjirokastër)
Hidden beneath the fortress, this secret 1960s bunker was constructed to protect government officials in case of attack. With more than 80 rooms, it’s an eerie and fascinating reminder of Albania’s communist paranoia.
Folklore & Festivals
If you’re lucky, you may stumble across local polyphonic singing (a UNESCO-recognized tradition of southern Albania). The city is also famous for its National Folklore Festival, hosted every five years in the castle.
Local Handicrafts
Small family-run workshops still produce loom-woven carpets, embroidered textiles, and carved wooden goods. Even if you don’t buy, it’s worth stepping inside for a look at living traditions.
Nearby Day Trips
Blue Eye Spring (Syri i Kaltër): A dazzling turquoise spring, about 45 minutes away, perfect for a morning escape.
Antigonea Archaeological Park: Ancient ruins of a city founded by King Pyrrhus, surrounded by mountain views.
Përmet & the Hot Springs: A longer excursion (about 1.5 hours), but worth it for natural pools, mountain landscapes, and the charming town of Përmet.
Suggested 2-Day Itinerary for Gjirokastër
Gjirokastër is small enough to explore in a couple of days, but it’s also layered with history, hidden corners, and nearby excursions that reward slow travel. Below you’ll find a detailed 2-day itinerary with suggested pacing.
Day 1 – Exploring the Heart of the Stone City
Morning:
Start at the Gjirokastër Castle, giving yourself at least 2 hours to explore the fortress, museum, and incredible valley views.
From there, walk down into the Cold War Tunnel to experience the hidden underground world of Albania’s past.
Lunch:
Stop at a traditional restaurant in the bazaar area — try qifqi (herbed rice balls) and fresh seasonal salads.
Afternoon:
Wander the Ottoman bazaar at a leisurely pace, browsing shops and sipping Turkish-style coffee.
Visit the Bazaar Mosque and admire its elegant simplicity.
Explore the Ethnographic Museum, then head to the Ismail Kadare House for a literary and cultural touch.
Evening:
Dine in a converted Ottoman house restaurant with terrace views over the old town.
If it’s summer, enjoy an evening stroll through the bazaar, where cafés and bars stay lively until late.
Day 2 – Mansions & Excursions
Morning:
Head uphill to visit the Zekate House, one of the best-preserved Ottoman mansions, and then continue to the Skenduli House for a comparison.
Stop by smaller hidden houses if you still have energy — each has unique decorative details.
Lunch:
Eat at a family-run taverna with views of the Drino Valley. Try oshaf (a dessert of sheep’s milk and figs).
Afternoon (choose one excursion):
Blue Eye Spring: Take a short trip to the magical turquoise waters, ideal for photography and a refreshing escape.
Antigonea Archaeological Park: If you prefer history, wander the hilltop ruins of this ancient city, enjoying both culture and panoramic scenery.
Evening:
Return to Gjirokastër in time for sunset from the castle walls or a café terrace.
Enjoy a slow dinner in the old town, ending your visit with a glass of raki.
3-Day Gjirokastër & Surroundings Itinerary
Day 1 – The Heart of Gjirokastër
Morning:
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Begin at Gjirokastër Castle, spending 2–3 hours exploring the fortress, museums, and breathtaking valley views.
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Descend into the Cold War Tunnel for a glimpse of secret underground life during Albania’s communist era.
Lunch:
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Eat in a café or traditional restaurant in the bazaar. Try qifqi (herb rice balls) and local cheeses.
Afternoon:
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Wander the cobbled bazaar streets, shop for handwoven rugs, silver jewelry, and carved wooden items.
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Visit the Bazaar Mosque and the Ethnographic Museum for a cultural overview.
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Explore the Ismail Kadare House, the literary icon’s preserved childhood home.
Evening:
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Dinner in a restored Ottoman house restaurant with terrace views.
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Optional: Take a twilight stroll to see the stone houses glow under the sunset light.
Day 2 – Mansions & Nearby Nature
Morning:
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Visit Zekate House and Skenduli House to experience traditional Ottoman architecture with decorated interiors and secret passages.
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Explore smaller hidden houses and alleys for authentic photography opportunities.
Lunch:
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Eat at a family-run taverna with Drino Valley views. Don’t miss oshaf, a sweet dessert made from sheep’s milk and figs.
Afternoon (choose one excursion):
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Blue Eye Spring (Syri i Kaltër): 45 minutes away, this natural spring is famed for its vivid turquoise water. Perfect for photography and short nature walks.
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Antigonea Archaeological Park: Ancient hilltop city ruins founded by King Pyrrhus, surrounded by stunning mountain scenery.
Evening:
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Return to Gjirokastër for sunset at the castle or a café terrace.
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Enjoy a relaxed dinner in the bazaar, perhaps accompanied by live polyphonic singing if available.
Day 3 – Mountain Villages & Përmet Excursion
Morning:
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Drive or hire a local guide to Labovë e Kryqit, a mountain village home to one of Albania’s oldest Byzantine churches.
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Wander the village and surrounding paths, soaking in traditional stone architecture and rural life.
Lunch:
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Continue to Përmet (about 1.5 hours from Gjirokastër). Enjoy local specialties such as gliko, local cheeses, and river trout.
Afternoon:
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Relax in Përmet’s natural hot springs — a perfect way to experience southern Albania’s thermal waters.
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Optional: Explore nearby Langarica Canyon, known for dramatic cliffs and crystal-clear rivers.
Evening:
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Return to Gjirokastër. End the trip with a slow dinner at an old town restaurant, perhaps enjoying a final view over the valley.
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Reflect on the mix of history, architecture, and natural beauty that makes Gjirokastër and its surroundings unique.
